Hey guys!
This month we're bringing you a trip that's becoming very popular lately, and we think you'll love it! Sri Lanka, or "Ceylon," is an island nation in Asia, located in the Bay of Bengal, also known as the teardrop of India.
If you have an adventurous spirit and enjoy exploring new cultures, Sri Lanka won't disappoint you.
A total of 13 nonstop days, traveling from the beach to the island's highest mountains, connected by a blue train that you can hang from the door. This time, we're suggesting a SUPER LOW-COST trip, although we encourage you to add your own twists to make it special.
We're leaving you with MyMaps as usual so you can take a look at the route:
Day 1 - Arrival at Colombo Airport + Bus to Anuradhapura
Day 2 - Temple Bike Rides and Sunset Swim (Anuradhapura – Triconmalee (Upuvele))
Day 3 - Day of walks, volleyball matches and temples (Upuvele)
Day 4 - Pigeon Iceland Diving and Bus to Sigiriya (Upuvele – Sigiriya)
Day 5 - The Lion's Rock in Sigiriya and 7 hours by bus to Dalhousie (Sigiriya – Dalhousie (Adams Peak))
Day 6 - Climbing Sri Lanka's highest mountain and taking the blue train (Adams Peak – Ella)
Day 7 - Visit to the tea plantations and excursion to Ella's Rock (Ella)
Day 8 - Trip to Arugam, the PLACE TO BE in Sri Lanka (Ella – Arugam Bay)
Days 9, 10 and 11 - Surfing all day in Arugam Bay (Arugam Bay)
Day 12 - Beach day in the south of Sri Lanka (Arugam Bay – Tangalle)
Day 13 - Going back home (Tangalle – Airport)
TIPS for the TRIP
After this brief introduction, we'll share the itinerary and our experiences on the trip. Let's go!
Day 1 - Arrival at Colombo Airport + Bus to Anuradhapura
We landed at Colombo Airport (the capital of Sri Lanka), went through visa control, and collected our checked baggage. We exchanged some cash (the airport doesn't usually have the best exchange rates) and bought a SIM card for data (from DIALOG, you get 4GB for 800 LKR). We asked at the airport tourist office how to get to Anuradhapura since neither of us had looked into travel information. In short, we started the trip feeling very lost.
We left the airport and found ourselves surrounded by taxi drivers, who, as is common in Southeast Asia, were waiting at the airport entrance to take us.
** I don't recommend getting these as they tend to be a bit pricey.
We take a bus from the airport to the central bus stop in Colombo. This bus costs 130 LKR, which is approximately 60 cents, and takes approximately one hour to reach Colombo. The bus drops us off at the Colombo bus stop, which at first glance seems like a madhouse; there are 100 buses, all moving in no particular order. We look for the bus to Anuradhapura, find it, and are told it leaves in 5 minutes, so we have time to buy a couple of drinks and some food, since the trip takes about 6 hours (it costs approximately 200 LKR).
The bus ride is incredibly difficult; they drive terribly, and the bus is so crowded that there's no room to even stretch our legs. When we arrive, the tuk-tuk drivers start pestering us to get into their tuk-tuk to go to a hostel they say belongs to someone they know. We ignore them and walk about 200 meters away. There, with the help of the guide, we find a hostel called FRENCH GARDEN, where a night in a four-bed room costs 5,500 LKR. Being tired, we don't want to look any further, so we decide to stay at that hotel. They're quite friendly, although we can't get the price down. We shower and go out to dinner in the town center. There are several cheap and somewhat shabby restaurants, but the food is typical Sri Lankan. We're exhausted from the trip, so after dinner, we take a short walk and go to sleep.
Day 2 - Temple Bike Rides and Sunset Swim (Anuradhapura – Triconmalee (Upuvele))
We got up around 8 a.m. since we were exhausted from the previous day's trip. We had breakfast at the hostel and rented bikes there (400 LKR per person) to visit the temples in the area. At the hostel, they gave us a map with the most important temples in the area, and we planned a route to see them all. Of course, between temples, we competed to see who got there first, and we got a few shouts from the frightened locals. You have to pay up to €25 to enter some temples!
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** I recommend going only to the free temples as there isn't much difference with the paid temples.
**It is important to bring something to cover your knees and shoulders, as it is necessary to enter most temples.
We spend the night visiting temples until 2 p.m. because the taxi we hired to go to Triconmalee leaves at 3 p.m., as there are no more buses to get there.
At 3:30 p.m., we take a taxi and pay 8,000 LKR for a 2:30-hour ride. On the way to Triconmalee, we read in the guidebook that a good place to sleep is Upuvele Beach, 3 km north, so we tell the driver to take us there. We find a beachfront hostel called Shivas, where the night costs about 8,000 LKR for a room with six beds. After dropping off our backpacks, we head to the beach and swim while watching the sunset behind the palm trees.
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We took the opportunity to book the dives at Pigeon Island as they are usually full for the following day (they cost around 75 euros for 2 dives the same morning).
Another activity you can book is a snorkel trip at Pigeon Island, and the dive sites you can book are located right on the beach. We shower and go to dinner at a restaurant on the main road right next to our hotel. The food is good and cheap. After dinner, we go to sleep.
Day 3 - Day of walks, volleyball games and temples (Upuvele)
We got up very early to watch the sunrise on the beach. After chilling for a while, we went to the hotel for breakfast.
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We weren't sure what to do, so after breakfast we asked the hotel owners, and they told us we could visit the Salli Muthumariyamman Temple. We started walking north along Upuvele Beach. After walking for an hour, we came to a river. We looked for a nearby bridge, but in the end we decided it would be easier to swim across. Luckily, the river doesn't have much current, so it was quite easy, and the water was only 1.5 meters deep. Once we crossed the river, we climbed a rock and reached the temple.
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It's a very different temple from the others, colorful and well-maintained. We lay down to rest on the sand after our wonderful hike. On the way back to the hotel, we found a lively bar, Fernando's Bar, with a volleyball net and tables on the sand. We decided to eat there and play a few games of volleyball with a group of French people.
We return to the hotel and quickly change to take a tuk-tuk to visit the new temple in Triconmalee (Thirukkoneswarm Kovil). The ride from the hotel to the center of Triconmalee costs us about 100 LKR. On the way to the temple, we pass a soccer field where some locals are playing a game. They invite us, and we beat the hell out of them... but we end up dead.
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After the game, on the way to the temple, we passed by Fort Frederick, a granite and rock fort built in 1624 by the Portuguese from the remains of a destroyed Hindu temple.
You have to enter the temple barefoot, so you have to pay 20 LKR to store your shoes. We arrived before sunset, which we really liked because it offers beautiful views of Triconmalee Bay.
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On the way back home, we looked for a restaurant for dinner, but since none of them appealed to us and we were very tired, we decided to return to the one we had the night before next to the hotel, where we were greeted with a smile. We had dinner and went to bed early because the next day they picked us up at 6:00 a.m. to go diving.
Day 4 - Pigeon Iceland Diving and Bus to Sigiriya (Upuvele – Sigiriya)
We woke up early and arrived at the dive resort at 7 a.m., had breakfast, and set up our gear. We were told there was a strong current and visibility would be a bit poor, but we went for the dive anyway. In the end, it wasn't so bad, and the site was amazing.
** I recommend taking the snorkeling trip as it is much cheaper and you see more or less the same thing.
After the two dives we visited Pigeon Island, which has incredible crystal-clear waters with beautiful coral and white sand on the beach.
The only downside to the trip is the large number of tourists on the island. But I still think it's worth it.
Upon returning to the hotel, we pick up our room and go find the bus to Sigiriya. To get to Sigiriya, we have to take two buses: the first to Dambulla and then another to get from there to Sigiriya. We arrive around 7:00 PM and, of course, miss the connecting bus. Luckily, an hour later, a local man picks us up in his car and drives us to Sigiriya. We find a hostel with a room for 5,000 LKR with six beds and a fan. It's a bit cramped, but it's fine now.
We drop off our backpacks and head for dinner. At the local restaurant, they explain that it's best to climb Pidurangala Mountain, as the Sigiriya (Lions Rock) archaeological site can be seen at sunrise.
We go to bed early because the next morning a taxi will pick us up at 4:30 to take us to the foot of Pidurangala.
Day 5 - The Lion's Rock in Sigiriya and 7 hours by bus to Dalhousie (Sigiriya – Dalhousie (Adams Peak))
We woke up at 4:15, and the taxi (900LKR) picked us up at 4:30 to take us to the entrance of Pidurangala Mountain. We arrived at the start of the hike, where you have to pass through a temple to enter and pay 500LKR to climb the mountain. The hike is very short, about 20 minutes, and fairly easy, except for a bit of rock climbing at the end.
** To climb Lion Rock you have to pay about 10,000LKR, while for Pidurangala it is only 500LKR.
We arrived at the top just in time to see the sunrise, and it was truly spectacular. It's important to bring warm clothing, as it tends to get cold early in the morning. Around 10:00, we returned to the hostel, where they prepared a delicious breakfast after all the work!
That night we had dinner at Ristorante Christl, 5 minutes from the hotel, and I highly recommend it too, because they were very fast and the price-performance ratio was good.
After some good pizzas we went to bed early, because, of course, we had to get up early again the next day!
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After breakfast, we rested at the hotel and around 2:00 p.m. decided that the next day we would climb Adams Peak, a 2,240-meter mountain. We asked, and they told us we had to get to Dalhousie first. It's important to get to Dalhousie early, as the journey is very long. We took three buses and a taxi to get there around 11:00 p.m.
The route is Sigiriya-Dambulla-Kandy-Hatton, followed by a taxi from Hatton to Dalhousie. We arranged the taxi and hotel from the bus from Kandy to Hatton due to time constraints.
**Buses only operate during the pilgrimage season. The only way to get to Dalhousie is by taxi, which costs around 3,000–4,000 LKR each way.
In Dalhouse, we slept in a hostel called Green House. It's pretty precarious (for a change), but since we don't need to sleep for long, we don't give it much thought. The Adams Peak hike starts around 3 AM. It's 12:30 AM, so we set our alarms for 3:30 AM and go straight to sleep. It's been a long day.
Day 6 - Climbing Sri Lanka's highest mountain and taking the blue train (Adams Peak – Ella)
The alarms sound, but it's impossible to get up. In the end, we all get up at 4:15, and at 4:30 we start the hike. It's not raining, but it seems cloudy. This is normal at this time of year; often, after sunrise, the sky clears up.
Imagine a very steep, almost vertical mountain covered in lush vegetation. After climbing more than 5,500 steps of varying height, you reach a sacred temple hidden at the top, shrouded in clouds. After 2 hours and a half of climbing stairs, we reached the top. You can't see anything and it's quite cold, but we're happy because it's something you must do in Sri Lanka.
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We got off and arrived at the hostel at 9:30, where we arranged a taxi for 10:00, as we wanted to catch the 11:15 train from Hatton to Ella. The taxi driver arrived a little late, but then drove fairly quickly, and we arrived just in time to buy our train tickets.
** We decided to take the 11:15 train because we were told that the 13:00 train was always very full.
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The best thing to do is get a seat and see the entire route from Hatton to Ella through the window. The journey takes about 5 hours. The first two hours have good views to the right, and the next three to the left. The scenery is spectacular, and the train is very cheap. Six tickets cost around 1,000 LKR in second class.
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We arrived in Ella and were exhausted and a little overwhelmed by the train, as it was quite full and we had barely slept. Upon arriving in Ella, the usual thing happened: 40 locals came offering tuk-tuks and accommodation. Luckily, a very friendly woman came up to us and offered us a place to sleep for 500 LKR per person per night with breakfast for 200 LKR: the Holiday Home Guest Inn, which is also an eight-minute walk from the center.
We had dinner at a restaurant called Rasta, where we had delicious local food. After dinner, we went to the famous Ella Cafe Chill restaurant for some beers. Dinner might be a bit pricey because they serve Western food, but it's worth it since there's a great atmosphere. It gets chilly at night, so it's a good idea to pack a sweater before going out to dinner.
Day 7 - Visit to the tea plantations and excursion to Ella's Rock (Ella)
We get up early again, have breakfast at the hotel, grab a couple of bottles of water, and head off to see the tea plantations. The lady at the hostel recommends we go early to see the locals at work.
You can visit the tea production factories, but we decided to see only the plantations.
After the plantations, we decided to climb the small mountain of Ella's Rock. We asked a couple of locals, and they told us it was best to hire a guide. We skipped the guide because we wanted a bit of an adventure, even though we knew we'd get a bit lost... but that's why we came!
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The great thing about this hike is that there are many different paths, and you can create your own route. It's truly worth it, but it's very important to bring water because it can get hot during the day. From the peak, you can see the entire Ella Valley with all the tea plantations. A hike up is highly recommended!
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We return exhausted and end the day at Café Chill drinking some beers with a group of Italian women.
Day 8 - Trip to Arugam, the PLACE TO BE in Sri Lanka (Ella – Arugam Bay)
We woke up early to have breakfast and go find the bus to Arugam Bay. The bus leaves at 7 AM and we make a stop in Monaragala before finally arriving at Putuvil, the next town over. From Putuvil, you have to take a tuktuk that costs 250 LKR to get to Arugam Bay.
Upon arriving at Arugam Bay, the bus drops you off at the most central part of the beach. From there, we started looking for hostels as usual, ending up at Samantha's Folly for the first night (a few beachfront cabins, the cheapest option at 5,000 LKR). After dropping off our bags, we went looking for somewhere to eat. Unfortunately, it was a holiday, but everything was closed, but we found a restaurant open that was not only very cheap but also very good, and the people who worked there were super nice.
In the afternoon, when we're all exhausted, we go for a walk and look at the prices of surfboards to rent (approximately 700 LKR/day).
We walk to the main point to check out the waves and we're really looking forward to surfing.
On Saturdays, there's a really cool party at Mambo Beach. It starts around 10 a.m. and ends at 5 a.m.
**Illegal alcohol can be purchased in small supermarkets (a bottle cost about 2500 LKR).
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We ended up having dinner at the same place, where we ate delicious rice with vegetables, and at night we had a drink at the hotel. Around 1:00, we started partying. Of course, we stayed at the party until the end! We watched the sun rise and went to sleep in the cabins.
Days 9, 10 and 11 - Surfing all day in Arugam Bay (Arugam Bay)
We woke up to rain, and that's when we realized sleeping in the cabins wasn't such a good idea. So we decided the best thing to do was find another hostel. The same people who run Samantha's Folly offered us the Lazy Bay Arugam Bay for 3,400 LKR/night for a three-person room with air conditioning. This second hotel is actually really good. It's very central and right across from the place where we always end up eating.
In the afternoon we go to a surf shop to pick up the boards and get them for 2000 LKR for 3 days.
We grab our boards and head to the main point to surf. The first day is incredible. The main point is divided into two parts: the pros' section and the beginners' section.
** It's important to be careful when entering and exiting the water, as it's very easy to cut yourself on the coral or rocks. This is especially true at low tide.
We surf for two and a half hours, watching the sun set while we steal waves from each other. We leave exhausted but very happy, and head straight to dinner and bed, because the next morning we wanted to see the sunrise while surfing!
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We spent the next two days exploring the different surf spots in the Arugam area. Getting around requires a tuktuk, as some spots are about half an hour away. It's difficult to negotiate the price; the best thing to do is arrange it through the hotel where you're staying.
One afternoon we went to Whiskey Point to surf, and just as the tuk-tuk was picking us up, a wild elephant appeared out of nowhere! So we took refuge in the hostel and canceled the surf session… we almost died!
Day 12 - Beach day in the south of Sri Lanka (Arugam Bay – Tangalle)
We got up at 5:30 a.m. to pack our bags. At 6:00 a.m., the tuktuk was waiting for us to take us to Putuvil, where the bus to Tangalle leaves. The bus isn't direct; it first stops in Monaragala before arriving in Tangalle. It took us about six hours to get there.
When we got there, as always, many locals came trying to sell their hotel, but we looked on Google Maps and headed to the beach, where there seemed to be more. On the way to the beach, we asked around at a couple of empty hotels. We found a place that would let us rent it for 400 LKR. The place is called Sarath's. It's a bit overcooked, but for what we paid, we couldn't ask for more.
After eating at a restaurant we found on TripAdvisor (Famili Restaurant), we took a tuktuk to Pehebiya Beach, where there's a really nice swing for taking photos. Next door is a cafe (Verse Collective) that's great for chilling out, and we took the opportunity to take some photos on the ropes at sunset.
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**During July and August, the weather tends to be quite bad in the south of the island; luckily, it didn't rain on us. We also recommend Unuwatuna Beach, one of the most famous beaches in southern Sri Lanka, next to Galle.
We returned to the hotel for dinner at the same place where we had eaten and spent a good amount of time talking with the owners. They were all a great family; they helped us arrange a van to return to the airport the next day.
Day 13 - Going back home (Tangalle – Airport)
We woke up quietly and had breakfast around 9 a.m. Our flight didn't leave until 8 p.m., so we decided to do a little sightseeing in Tangalle, buy some traditional souvenirs for family and friends, and take a break from the long journey we'd endured.
At 2:00 PM, the van picks us up and takes us directly to the airport. It takes about 3 hours, but it all depends on traffic (you never know in these countries). We arrive at the Colombo International Airport terminal, four hours early. We load our bags and bid farewell to Sri Lanka.
PS: The entire stay cost us €300 per person, I don't think anyone can beat that!
And that's all, folks! I'll leave you with a couple of tips that I think will be very useful for your trip. ENJOY!
TIPS for the TRIP
Check the weather first! For your luggage, it's a good idea to check the weather forecast for the areas you're planning to visit, but if not, you can always buy it at your destination. It's essential to pack a toiletry bag with basic medications, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a raincoat, and a swimsuit.
** Tourist visas must be processed at least 48 hours before travel. This can be done at http://www.eta.gov.lk/slvisa/visainfo/center.jsp?locale=es_ES and the price is USD 35.
It's hard to find establishments that allow card payments, so it's best to exchange cash in the villages. The exchange rate is usually €1 🡪200 LKR. They don't usually rip you off, but it's always a good idea to be cautious when exchanging money.
Where to eat and sleep will depend on your tastes and amenities, but in this case, we suggest options for backpackers who want a real experience. The approximate cost per day is €10-30. The best thing you can do to eat locally is to look in a guidebook or on TripAdvisor. We found many excellent and very cheap restaurants. Drinking water should always be purchased in bottles; you can find it in supermarkets, restaurants, and small shops. It usually costs between 70 and 80 LKR. Most restaurants serve fried rice or noodles with vegetables, which average around 300 LKR.
**If you don't like spicy food, it is highly recommended that every time you order a dish you ask them to not have it spicy, since it is normal for them to put spices in all dishes and many times they are very spicy.
There are plenty of options for sleeping. When you arrive at a destination by bus, train, or taxi, there are usually many tuk-tuk drivers offering you places to sleep. My recommendation is to get away from there as quickly as possible, as they tend to be quite crowded. The locals are usually very friendly and will always try to help in any way they can, although they often don't understand a word of English. The cheapest rooms usually cost around 500-1000 LKR per person, depending on the amenities.
** One trick to get a lower room rate is to recommend them on TripAdvisor or Google Maps.
** Many hostels offer breakfast for an extra charge, usually around 200-400LKR, otherwise you can buy juices and biscuits for breakfast at the supermarket.
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How to get around
There are various modes of transportation: bus, train, tuk-tuk, and taxi. In Sri Lanka, public transportation runs from around 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. (approx.).
The bus is the cheapest way to travel long distances. It's usually very crowded, so for the most comfortable travel, it's best to take the first bus of the day. Ask locals for schedules and where the stops are; you can buy tickets on the bus. Driving in Sri Lanka is very bad, and it's a bit scary at first. They're overtaking you everywhere, and suddenly the bus slams on the brakes because it's about to hit someone, but you get used to it over time.
The train is a must-see on your trip, especially the one connecting Kandy with Ella. The price is similar to the buses, and you can travel in three different classes.
You'll find the famous tuktuks everywhere, and they're ideal for short distances. The price is usually around 100 LKR per kilometer, so it's a good idea to check the route beforehand on Google Maps.
A private taxi/van is the most comfortable way to travel, but also the most expensive. However, sometimes it's the only option to get around because there are no buses or trains to get there.
** To know the best way to get to your destination, it's best to ask the locals, if possible more than one, because sometimes they don't even know you're asking, but they'll always answer with a big smile.
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